this seems like a good color for another country. today we are in león, nicaragua, but we will soon be leaving (later this afternoon actually) to return to managua, the capital of the country. as there is only 1 bus out of this country going north that leaves each day (it leaves at 5am), we have to return to the capital to catch it.

we spent the first night in managua, where on the plane we met an incredibly kind nicaragüense who told us how ridiculous the cab prices would be at the airport and that we should look across the street to find a cab. well, her sister, brother and son all came to get her and they busied themselves with finding us a decent cab (because we had big packs and looked foreign they would overcharge), but it turned out the cabs all wanted more than our new friends thought we should have to pay and so they took us the 10 miles into town themselves. from there they found us a cheap cab to take us to where we thought there would be cheap places to stay (although the guidebook i am using, only 5 years old, calls the neighborhood one thing, nobody from there has ever heard of that name, so there was some confusion at first). anyway, they found us another cab and told us it would be 4 dollars (almost everyone here accepts usa dollars). before i could reach into my pocket for cash, they were handing us the amount in córdobas, the local currency, and explaining that since we just arrived we probably had no change. upon discovering that i was reaching into my pocket to give them cash, they made it clear that they were not actually offering the money, but were insisting. needless to say this was the most cordial arrival i have received anywhere and should have boded well for the rest of the stay here in nicaragua. it did not.

we made our way to the part of town the guidebook said has cheap places to stay. well, cheap was true. the barrio was truly frightening, but i will get into that another day. we found a cheap hospedaje (like a house with rooms partitioned off) and were all set. the señora running the house told us it was dangerous to walk around (we got there around 9pm), but as we had not eaten, she recommended a place within two blocks. it was sketchy to say the least and as investing in street lights would take up precious money that they city could spend on, say, trash removal (also not done), the streets were darker than madison county side roads.

and it is roasting down here also. i should mention that. mosquitos abound, and since my friend has already had dengüe fever once (the second could be fatal), i put up the mosquito net in the, let us just say, not frequently cleaned room (filthy would be more adequate actually). about an hour into our rest, i could not stop itching my legs and arms. ever heard the phrase: sleep tight, don´t let the bed bugs bite. well, i leanred that night what bed bugs are. painful, obnoxious, not something you ever want to experience again (which is why, 3 nights later on the largest freshwater lake island in the world, ometepe, we found ourselves sleeping under the open sky in hammocks instead of the shitty ass room we had paid for that apparently used mattresses and pillows from the 1960´s that had never been cleaned or replaced). yet i digress. managua.

is, as far as i can tell from less than 24 hours, one of the ugliest, dirtiest and poorest capital cities i have ever been to by far. mexico, even the poorest parts, seems first world here. frightening at times, managua left much to be desired. we descended upon another city on a lake, this the largest freshwater lake in central america, granada on tuesday. heaven. colonial buildings, oriented for tourists, the place positively reeked of happy people and good times. while that first impression was not all true, we found a beautiful place to stay for 18 bucks a night (expensive for my taste, but after the bed bug incident, it was necessary. on a side note, we found an english-run coffe/bookshop on arriving in granada and the lady, from the states, suggested the place we ended up staying in. she told us there were cheaper places, but had heard horror stories of bed mites, and even a case of mange. no. we told her we could not believe it and were shocked but would take her advice and find the place she suggested. dear god. this is a valuable lesson. pay more if you have to, but find a place that is clean (this never mattered to me in the mountains of mexico where i have stayed because of the cold weather, but here, damn, the bugs love it.)

anyway, granada rocks. i have to go check out more of this city, but when next i write i will either be in el salvador or guatemala. tomorrow, honduras. merry christmas!